The great fit: How to distinguish a tailored suit

The great fit: How to distinguish a tailored suit

It’s no secret that a tailored suit will look better than any off-the-rack alternative but how do you distinguish a handcrafted suit from one that has been mass-produced by machine? Here we look at some of the tell-tale signs to look out for.


First off, don’t expect a label on the inside that tells you what it is made from and how to wash it. Bespoke suits tend not to have labels but if they do, the labels are generally found on the inside of the inner pocket.

Rounded Corners

One of the first things to look out for on a bespoke made suit is rounded corners at the end of the sleeves and the bottom of the jacket. Your tailor will take care to round the corners off to prevent them from wearing and fraying. This will give longevity to the suit.


Pick-stitching is slight stitching along the edge of a suit and was once a guarantee that the suit had been handmade. These days there are machines that will replicate the look of pick-stitching but not the quality of construction. The only way to know for certain is to check the back of the fabric where it will be obvious that there is no pick-stitching if the garment was mass-produced. If you see pick-sticking on the back seams or sleeves, then you are most likely looking at a tailored suit as cheaper versions tend not to use pick-sticking on these parts of the suit.

Inside Stitching

A tailored suit is manufactured by hand so you should be able to see evidence of this in the details. The lining, sleeves, and armholes should all show proof of hand stitching which you’ll be able to tell because it will look slightly irregular and will be more flexible when you move the suit.  Tailored suits should always be either full canvas or half canvas at all that is all sewn and should never be glued.


Like the inside stitching, the stitching on the collar should be slightly irregular if it is hand sewn and once again it will have that element of flexibility which cannot be achieved with machine sewing as the stitches are tight and close.

There is no doubt that a custom-tailored suit looks and feels premium and often the finesse is in the finer details of the craftsmanship. At Louis Collections in Bangkok, we believe that every suit should be the perfect fit. That’s why all our suits are hand cut and hand sewed for precision in every stitch. A suit that fits well not only enhances your silhouette, it also makes you feel more comfortable and gives you confidence and an air of authority. For details of our range of bespoke suiting options or to place an order for your perfect fitting suit, visit our website.