Tailoring 101 - Suit patterns

Tailoring 101: Suit patterns

The fabric patterns used for men’s suits are created by interweaving differently colored threads. Here we look at some of the most common patterns found in men’s suits.

Block colors

These are fabrics made of one solid color with no inherent patterns. The most common style for the workplace and for formal occasions.


At first glance, crosshatch has the appearance of being a block color, but a closer view has a light ‘brush strokes’ effect which adds a subtle layer of sophistication and understated texture to the suit. This is often seen in gray and charcoal suits.


A dual-tone pattern characterized by broken checks or abstract four-pointed shapes, usually in black and white, although other colors are sometimes used. Houndstooth is common for casual wear and sports jackets but is rare (and frowned upon) for business attire.


Alternate diagonal lines used to form a distinct VVV pattern that resembles the classic cartoon fishbone, hence the name. This is a popular pattern and is equally suitable for casual wear and business suits.


Regularly spaced, parallel stripes of a lighter color woven into a dark fabric. Pinstripes are particularly popular in business and, worn correctly a pinstripe suit is one that exudes authority and commands respect. You sometimes see slightly thicker stripes which are known as chalk stripes. Chalk stripes are less popular and are more likely to be seen as part of casual attire.


The self-stripe effect is achieved using a weaving technique rather than a different colored fabric which gives the lines a more subtle appearance than pinstripes or chalk stripes. This is a versatile pattern that is appropriate for almost any occasion.

Glen Plaid

A woolen fabric with a woven twill design of small and large checks. Commonly seen in either black or gray against white, or with alternate stripes using two dark and two light colors. Also known as Prince of Wales Check as it was the Prince (later Edward VII) who adapted the look and introduced the suit to include brown and cream.

With so many patterns to choose from, selecting the right one for your suit can seem quite daunting. There are many factors to consider when making your choice, not least of which is the occasion you’ll be attending or how regularly you intend to wear it.

At Louis Collections in Bangkok, we specialize in tailoring and bespoke suiting. If you’re considering a bespoke made suit or just looking to invest in your next high-quality garment for any or all occasions, our expert tailors are here to help you with style advice, suiting queries, or with measuring and tailoring a suit to fit perfectly and help you look the part at all times. To chat to us about anything tailoring or to enquire about our services, check out our website, message us or give us a call.