Tailoring 101: Collar Styles

Not all shirt collars are the same and it’s important to know what shirt to wear for which occasion. And one of the most important style choices when it comes to a shirt and when or where it should be worn is the collar. Here we look at 7 styles of the collar and when is the appropriate time or occasion for each.

The Point Collar

The standard collar in North America is the point, so-called because the tips of the collar are pointed. The spread between the two collar points is usually quite small and it’s snug against a tie. The points of the collar are not covered by the lapels of your jacket. The point collar is medium stiffness so it holds its shape but does not stand proud of your tie. The perfect business collar.

The Spear Collar

A retro version of the point collar but with long thin points. This style has become popular again recently and can be worn in a very similar way to the point collar. Another business collar.

The Tab Collar

A classic style which incorporates an underlying tab beneath each collar which fastens to the top button, thus pulling the tips inwards and lifting the tie knot. This collar should never be worn without a tie and is, therefore only suitable for business or a semi-formal occasion.

The Club Collar

The club collar is identified by its rounded points. This collar originated at Eton College in England and is seen as something of a status symbol. It maintains the closeness of the points and is suitable with or without a tie. Usually worn as part of a smart-casual look.

The Button Down Collar

An American favorite. Similar to the point collar but the collar can be buttoned down. This was originally seen as quite a formal shirt but these days is mainly casual wear and is worn with the button undone.

The Spread Collar

The spread collar has much more distance between the two points. Popular with wider ties or wide tie knots. It’s also a good choice when wearing a tie made of thicker fabrics such as wool or cashmere which can look restricted if the points of the collar are too narrow. As a rule, this is a collar for men with a thin face as it will widen the wearers’ face shape. Mostly smart casual and ideal for fall or winter.

The Wing Collar

Reserved only for the most formal events, the tips stand up and are directed horizontally so they resemble the open wings of a bird. Usually worn with a bow tie and traditionally reserved for white tie events, today it is often paired with a tuxedo. You may also see the wing collar worn by valets or butlers with a black necktie in period pieces such as Jeeves and Wooster.

At Louis Collections in Bangkok, we have a huge range of shirts in different collar styles to suit every look and every occasion. Check out our website to see our look book and place an order from anywhere in the world.