When it comes to suit buttoning in men’s fashion there are really two options; 2 button or 3 button jackets.
2 button jacket
The most common is the 2 button jacket which is difficult to get wrong irrespective of your size, build, or weight. The top button of the 2 button jacket is lower than that on the 3 button version so you have a more pronounced ‘V’ that is flattering to your silhouette regardless of build. To create the ‘V’ all you need to do is fasten the top button. It really is that simple. The bottom button is there for aesthetics and should never be fastened. To do so will restrict movement and cause the jacket to rise up when you move your arms. 2 button jackets include the slightly less formal sports jackets and there may be occasions when wearing one that you choose to leave the top button undone if you’re going for a layered outfit but for a 2 button suit jacket you should only undo the top button when seated.
3 button jacket
The 3 button jacket can be more problematic as it can serve to accentuate the midriff of a portly man or make a short man look even shorter. The 3 button suit tends to suit the taller, thinner man or someone with an athletic build. The opinion is split on whether the top two buttons should be fastened or just the middle one. If there are practical reasons for you to be standing them sitting regularly throughout an event then just the middle button is easier but for aesthetics, it’s a matter of personal choice.
The key to getting the 3 button suit right lies elsewhere. As mentioned earlier, one of the benefits of the 2 button suit is the ‘V’ shape that complements the male torso. With a 3 button jacket, the top button is higher and the ‘V’ less obvious. This is one argument for leaving the top button undone but in truth, that doesn’t really create a ‘V’, it just exposes more shirts. The most important thing to get right is the fit. That’s why you should always choose a tailormade suit if you want 3 buttons. There are too many aspects of it that can (and almost certainly will) go wrong if the fit is not absolutely spot on.
Double-breasted jackets are a different proposition and we’ll deal with those another time.
At Louis Collections in Bangkok, we create bespoke suits for every occasion and every budget. If you have never experienced the elegant fit of a custom-tailored suit why not check out our look book for inspiration. Online ordering is quick and easy and you could have a bespoke made 2 buttons or 3 button suit delivered to your door within weeks.