Fabric guide: what you should look out for when ordering your bespoke garment

When ordering your bespoke garment, one of the crucial considerations is which fabric to select. Here we look at some of the popular suiting materials to help you decide which is right for you.


Versatile, warm, and breathable, wool is an ideal fabric for your regular suit. It can be worn during mid-day heat and cooler evenings and won’t look out of place for any business or social occasion. It’s the classic look and is a fabric that remains wrinkle-free. Wool is a bulky fabric so it doesn’t suit a slimline suit.


Luxurious and comfortable but with a slight shine which some people don’t like. It’s not a fabric to be considered for business attire but for a cool, comfortable smart casual look it’s ideal. Many men prefer the cashmere and wool blend to the 100% cashmere suit as the cashmere provides warmth and softness while the wool gives the elasticity which allows freedom to move and helps maintain the shape and silhouette of the suit for longer.

Worsted wool

A compact fabric that is smooth and durable. While most wool requires that the natural fiber be spun, worsted is combed in a carding process to remove short, brittle fibers so that only the longer fibers undergo the spinning process. The end result is a smooth but tough fabric. Worsted can be woven in a number of ways, producing flannel, tweed, gabardine, and fresco cloths. And don’t rule it out for a summer suit. Unlike cotton or poly fibers, which lay flat and weave tightly together, wool fibers have a lot of creases and crinkles that allow for pockets of air so can actually help keep you cool in the summer.


A great choice for a more casual suit. It’s lightweight and breathable so you’ll remain comfortable.


Ideal for a casual look and for summer wear at a garden party or barbecue. It’s light and breathable but will crease easily and won’t always maintain its silhouette.

Lining is key

As well as selecting the right fabric for your suit, you need to consider the lining. You could choose the most breathable fabric going, but add a polyester lining and you nullify those breathable properties. In some instances an unlined or partially lined suit will be your best option, and if you do opt for a lining then silk or Bemberg are good fabrics to choose. It’s best to discuss this with your tailor who will be able to advise you based on your bespoke requirements.

When selecting the right fabric, it’s important to have a little knowledge of material details, and we hope we’ve given you an understanding of them here. For further details or for advice on the exact fabrics that may suit you, come visit our website or visit us at Louis Collections in Bangkok.