Bespoke suit construction – three key stages

At Louis Collections we custom-tailor hundreds of bespoke suits every year for many customers, something that we truly feel blessed and honoured about.
Many of our new and potential clients however, often ask us how our processes are when we craft a suit from scratch, so we decided to write an article about just that, describing every step of the way from the choosing of your material until you hold your finished suit in hand.

Many Tailors require up to 14 weeks in order to craft a bespoke suit for their clients, whereas we can act quite a bit quicker, since we’ve hired some of the best Tailors and cutters there are to be had in Bangkok and we don’t tailor clothes to the masses, but put quite a lot of detail into each individual suit we are laying hands on. Many Tailors worldwide would make you believe that the longer you wait for your suit, the more detail and focus is laid into it, but the truth of that is that they really have such full order books, so you’ll be put at the end of the queue until it is your turn. Here in Bangkok it runs quite differently, as we’re not focused on serving to the masses, but delivering class. It can take time to construct a suit, but you better think 1-3 weeks before you hold your finished suit in hand – not 12-14 weeks.
Who has time to wait that long? Well, you don’t have to!

Initial consultation – shaking hands

This is the time that is truly exciting for both the customer and the Tailor. Here you as a customer will get the chance to meet and greet your Tailor, whereas we get a first hand look at you, your stance, body composition, style and taste. Once we’ve chatted a bit, we’ll present you a long range of different styles and materials for you to choose from. Once that is settled and you know what you want to have tailored, we’ll proceed to take your measurements carefully from top to toe. These measurements will be altered just a bit in order to cater to your fit later on, but leave that to us.

Once we have your measurements, your style and material choice, the chosen details that you should be implemented in the suit, we’ll get right to work, cutting your fabric, measuring – and finally the sewing will begin from one of our experienced Tailors in-house.

The first fitting

Otherwise known as the ‘skeleton fitting, this fitting session will probably take place just a few days after your initial consultation (depending on your own schedule). By this point, the Tailor will have tacked together the structure of the suit with a white basting threads. There will be no inner lining at this point yet, and in fact the interior will have barely been touched besides a fitting amount of canvas and shoulder padding for later fitting, but we’ll get to that.

The first fitting, which isn’t really required for repeated customers, will ensure that the measurements of the customer have been taken precisely and to the point. Once you’ve tried that one, and we’ve settled the fundamental structure of your suit has been noted and marked, the first fitting is done.
Next thing that’ll happen is for your suit to be taken back apart before receiving re-stitching in the modified form that results in a better fit for you as a customer. This process of skeleton fitting can be repeated as often as you need, until you are completely satisfied with the outcome and fit.

The second fitting

The second fitting is commonly known as the “forward fitting”. This is not the place to make structural changes to your suit, but instead we’ll make small adjustments to ensure that your suit perfectly suits and fits you. We’ll inspect and amend the seams, trouser hem length, sleeve length and waist fit. Here you can make final amendments as to the overall shape (normal, slim or loose fit). During the second fitting you’ll start seeing the finished results. You’ll now see the suit with pockets, lapel facing and inner linings.

The last and final fitting

The last exciting step, the final fitting is due. By this point the structure and the fit has been settled and perfect. Now, what is left to complete are the finishing touches. Here we’re talking about sewing the buttonholes, buttons, monograms, hand-stitching, and finally the pressing – every last step to make  the suit ready to be worn.

Every Tailor has their different approach for the fittings. Some may require only two fittings, others up to five, but this guide offers at least a basic understanding of the whole process involved.
If you’re happy with the outcome, we can then ship the finished suit to your address, or you can take it right with you, or just don it right away – to pull of the new style right away.

Louis Collections in Bangkok has a rich history in tailoring. We use only the most experienced Tailors, Cutters and Sewers and have a very focused quality control team in order to make sure that every suit that leaves our shop meets the precise standards we’ve set for ourselves.
Do you need a new suit custom-tailored to your exact body measurements? Book an appointment for your first consultation here: Contact-us