A modern gentleman’s guide to suits – Everything you need to know in one article

It is commonly known and said that the suit makes the man – but what does that really mean? What really makes the modern suit? See the suit as an uniform; it should be personal, it should be unique and it should be individual. Having said that, the modern suit and all its components should really be thought of as a blank canvas with which you can truly express yourself. The elements that you choose within your suit can take you from being seen as the “business guy” or “the interesting, confident and creative individual that doesn’t go out of the way for a stylish look”. Choosing the right suit for yourself isn’t an easy task; there are a lot of options, limitless options in fact. If you find yourself confused by the choices you’re left with, this article will help you make the right decisions; because from choosing lapels to pocket squares, darts or pocket styles, all parts of a suit needs to be throughly considered. In this article you’ll get the basic knowledge, so you can choose a great suit that helps you express your unique style.

The suit should fit – make sure it does

When talking about suits, the fit is of foremost importance. If you can afford to take your suit to a tailor, please do. With a suit from Louis Collections you certainly can afford it. We can customise and update almost everything about a suit, and you’re also guaranteed the best fit possible. If you don’t feel ready for utilising a Tailor yet, take these tips with you from this article; things to keep in mind when finding a suit that is well-fitted to your body.
If you’re on the larger side of body types, don’t do what so many gents worldwide are doing, sadly – don’t invest in a suit that is oversized, as it will achieve the opposite as you try to do – it will add pounds, not make you look slimmer. To draw the attention away from the stomach area, use a bright pocket square to draw the eye up towards the chest and away from your midsection.
If you’re among the shorter gentlemen, face it, be realistic about it and buy a jacket that is shorter. If you wear too long jackets, it will only make you look shorter and sloppy – and that’s not something you want to be known for, is it?

No matter what your body type is, make sure that your sleeves allow for a little of your shirt cuff to peek out. The fit around the shoulder is another important component, so make sure that your shoulder isn’t too loose or too tight.
Expressing your personal style can be done in various ways and with that we mean various fits. Men’s dress trousers can allow you to express your personal style, while also being mindful of your body type.
Knowing your real waist size and inseam is always the most optimal place to start. Are you left with a decision between slim fit and straight fit, let your body type decide, not what you’d like it to be.
If you’re body type is on the thinner side, a slim fit will add a sharp and clean look to your body.
If you however are a bit more heavily built, then a straight fit can add to a contemporary feel without making your outfit look too tight.
Pleats should always be avoided, as they can add to a look of being heavier than you actually are, and your trousers will in turn look excessively loose.
Instead, opt for flat-front trousers. The pant break is another element of trousers that is highly critical and can be expressive. A medium pant break that results in a half of a complete fold, where the trousers leg hits the shoe, is the general standard for business suits, but a pant with no break is being seen more often on the well-dressed contemporary man nowadays. You can always get the break of your pants adjusted by having your Tailor customise it for you.

Lapels, Collars, and Shirts – its all in the details

When choosing a suit, don’t neglect the smaller details. Choosing these details should be considered as just as important as choosing colour, material and fit. The suit lapel is one of the first things people see on your suit, yet is often neglected. The standard notch lapel can be considered as the most common everyday office wear choice. However, the notch lapel comes in various widths. Slimmer lapels are in fashion these days, so if you want to achieve a modern look, opt for a narrow lapel style. Other available lapel styles, such as the peak- and shawl lapel can be worn when you want to dress up or dress down a suit for different types of occasions, or if you want to express personal style.
The dress shirt plays an important role in your overall appearance of your outfit, and should be treated with the same carefulness. Dress shirts can’t be summed up by small, medium and large sizes, as your neck and arm-length differs from other gentlemen – for all gentleman. There is no one with uniform sizes, so these standard sizes really don’t make much sense other than if you’re achieving a regular look that is leaning towards the sloppy side.
When purchasing a dress shirt, make the neck fit test. If you can fit one finger in between the collar and your neck – you are one step closer towards a perfectly fitting shirt. This allows you to retain sharpness while maintaining comfort. Find a dress shirt for yourself that fits close to your torso to create a sleek line. Different collar styles can also be used to express yourself or complement your features.

Dress for the Season

When choosing a suit, embrace the change in weather and opt for a different materials that will keep your wardrobe more relevant and comfortable. The Spring and Summer seasons respectively can be uncomfortable times to be wearing a suit, but if you teach yourself to integrate more cotton fabrics, such as Khaki, Seersucker and Linen into your suiting game, you not only show yourself as a modern man, but also one that stays comfortable in the heat.

Khaki is not the definition of boring beige, but is actually available for suits in several interesting colours, such as blue and white. Seersucker suits be bold seasonal statements that easily can be paired down with a more subtle type of dress shirt and tie.

Go bold this Summer

Bold suits call for bold men to wear them. Taking this statement too far will make you look like a bit of a clown at a circus, but an attempt to pull it off correctly shouldn’t be avoided altogether. Plaids, bold tweeds, pinstripes, and colours can all be a part of your repertoire by balancing them with your other pieces. Unification and editing is key when composing an ensemble. Pinstripes should remain on the thinner side as larger pinstripes can look extremely outdated, distracting, and add to a distorted body. Coloured suits are also an easy way to make a style statement.

When choosing colors, it is best to still stay within the neutral range: navy, cream, maroon, even dark green. You can opt for pairing a colored jacket with black or grey dress pants. Dressing in an audacious way shouldn’t come at the expense of sophistication. Keep in mind that wearing a bold suit takes balance and confidence.

The Grey Two-Button Suit

The grey two-button suit is the most essential staple of a man’s suit wardrobe. If you are new to suiting or just looking to update your wardrobe, purchasing the grey two-button suit makes for a great start. Unlike the serious formality of a black suit, the grey suit remains formal, but gives off a touch of approachability.
Wearing a gray two-buttoned suit provides you a classic foundation onto which you can add unique elements like a loud printed dress shirt, a bold necktie, or maybe a new pair of dress shoes. You do not want to overwhelm the suit though, but instead you’d want to complement it. A wool fabric will serve as the most versatile, as it is resistant to wrinkling, and is appropriate for every season. The two-button construction is a standard requirement of the modern suit. The three-button suits have a tendency to create more of a boxy frame. Newest trends in men’s suiting lean towards a trimmer fit, and slightly shorter jackets that accentuates a man’s natural frame, giving a more contemporary and sleek look. The grey two-button suit is a great investment for those looking for new, updated, and timeless suiting.

Accessorise Your Suit

A suit can be minimised or elaborated by choosing the appropriate accessories. Accessories will help complete and personalise your outfit. If you want to add some louder pieces to your suit, without the risk of looking overdone, we recommend going bolder with one or two elements.

The tie bar is a classic way to keep your tie out of your way and also create a put together look. If you’re a french cuff kind of guy, you can define your persona even further by choosing a great pair of cufflinks. Whether they express your polish or your individuality, make sure that they remain an accent to the ensemble rather than the focus of it. And don’t forget the value of a great pocket square.
Knowing how to pair a necktie with your suit is key to centring your outfit. The necktie gives a long vertical line down your torso, creating a slimming effect that can be an added bonus to those with more of a broader body frame. When choosing a necktie, always keep in mind your whole ensemble. If nostalgia is what you are looking for, then the bow tie is an attractive, if not slightly quirky option to consider.

Now that you are armed with suiting know-how, go forth and conquer! If you are looking for the perfect suit, why not get it custom-tailored to your own style preferences, body type and exact measurements? Get in touch with us today to hear more about our processes, prices, details and more.